This trip to Varanasi was a highly visual one. I was helping my friend Smitha with her photography project: in fact, I convinced her to stay a few more days only to take pictures. Those will be the good ones, but we have to wait a few months for her to process the film.
First, some pictures from Kolkata (you know how often you get a few older pictures on your memory card.)
This is the lake near my house that I run around when I’m being responsible

And these are the pretty flowers near that lake

And there was also a big, firey Machine by that lake

And then I the workers working on the Machine got ready to pose for a picture
Machine
And then I took a picture–I really like this photo:

And there was a sculpture exhibition in Kolkata. The sculptor is based in Delhi…Let’s see, I forget his name. I think it’s Rajkumari.



Now we get to the Train Ride. I accidentally booked me and my friend Dan on the very very wrong train to Varanasi. A ride that ought to have been 12 hours was more like 26. The train went through rural Bihar and stopped at every single station. I felt like I got a sense of what Bihar was like, and it lives up to its repuation. I made a little video; maybe you’ll get as bored watching it as I did on the train. If nothing else, it’ll give you a sense of how fast the train moved. There’s a little Patna there in the middle. Without ever having been to either place, I’m willing to say that Patna is kind of like Baltimore.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E70sQrAuKxU
OK, now varanasi. I was fascinated by this temple; when I was there before it was totally unsubmerged, you could walk in it and enjoy it. Smitha took a good picture of it with her big camera, but these will have to do for now


Something’s going on at Assi Ghat
We went to find the Silk workshops. It was intersting because the area we found (with the help of an autodriver with a kickback from our silk purchases) was very integrated, with Hindus and Muslims working side by side. It did seem like the Hindus were more senior on the business end of things, but it’s always nice to see communal harmony. Everyone was working hard, and people seemed well-enough fed. The children wanted photos, not money.


The weaver’s family upstairs from the looms


Preparing the Loom
Weaving
The Machine Loom
The Goings On at the Dyeing Shop
And, the finished products being sold to us

OK, done with the weaving. Here’s Baba ShivDas building a Yagya pit on the terrace of my guest house. ShivDas is Italian, and has been in India for most of his life. He’s a LalBaba. A Yagya is the sacred fire sacrifice that’s as old as the vedas, and it’s the duty of every Baba to conduct Yagyas on auspicious days. That’s the social role of Babas–they are bringers of the fire. It’s usually a many-day affair. And yes, that’s cow dung and water he’s using to build it–very good building material. The shape of the pit is very symbolic; this square is supposed to represent a cow’s mouth–it could be a circle–the chakra. Or, if he was a different order of Sadhu, it could be, for example, a three tierd structure, representing the three orders of existance. and so on.

and then there was an ELEPHANT! Hooray. But it kind of looked sad.


And if you’re in Varanasi, it’s very important to take at least one boat ride and take pictures of the city from the boat:

This is the Nepali temple–check out a map: Varanasi is close to Nepal, it’s a busride away.




Smitha attempted to get this picture, taken from a boat, with her big camera. Which, if it comes out, will be quite a photographic achievement. We’ll have to wait and see.

Taken from the roof of Shuklaji’s house while his son was asking for the monies.

Now I got a series of Smitha setting up her camera. This was always an adventure, because it’s a really slow process, and attracts a big crowd of interested Indians. And it was my job to do crowd control. This particular picture was not fated to be: she was trying to take a picture of a group of cows, but all the curiousity about the camera that the crowd generated made the cows themselves curious, so they came to look, almost destroying her camera. Obviously, during that action, I wasn’t taking pictures myself.



A temple near Durga Kund

I like this picture. Kuruksetra is the battleground on which the final battle of the Mahabharata was fought. It’s also apparantly that filthy tank. Or maybe it’s the tractor. Or the water pump.

And here’s a picture of India

Oh, this is funny, right? Totally inexplicable. Obviously Western money. But what do they want? To turn the boatmen into windfarmers? Even to put a windfarm near Varanasi is silly: there’s no wind!

And there’s a whole fleet of them

I got a picture of the Indians taking a picture of the white people, but I just barely missed my chance to get a picture of the white lady taking a picture of the Indian lady taking a picture of her. The longer I stay in India, the more I begin to behave towards white people like Indians to: I stare at them and am entertained by their reactions to India and by them in general. It’s very strange, given that I know what it was like before I was used to Indians behaving like that.

And, to finish it off, some silly Tabla playing (It’s not Ramuji–he’s better)
And that’s all I got, folks! Eid Mubarak!